Marseilles Memories
This gritty port town, first settled by the ancient Greeks, has an old-maritime feeling and a unique mix of cultural influences unlike any place I've ever traveled. The highlight of my visit was a trip to the Cours Julien art district, where I explored the maze of eccentric, painted streets, stepping into galleries and shops along the way. And it is absolutely lovely to stroll along the almost-always sunny port, picking up soaps and Pastis for friends and family back at home. Named a European Capital of Culture of 2013, Marseilles is easy to access from Paris via the TGV, but could not be more different.
Stay: Mamashelter, Casa Honore, Hotel La Residence du Vieux Port, Au Vieux Panier.
Eat: The iconic dish of Marseilles is Bouliobasse, so your biggest decision while here is where to eat it. I ordered it from FonFon and was delighted by both the food and the stunning views of the port and its many colorful boats, on which the restaurant sits. Other institutions known for their Bouillabaisse are Chez Michal, Chez Aldo and the Michelin-starred L'Epuisette.
Do: Stroll along the Marseilles port, admiring the whimsical larger-than-life sculptures along the boardwalk and shopping for soaps and Pastis. Stop by the famous Four des Navettes for some orange blossom navettes (cookies). Then head to the quirky Cours Julien art district, admiring the murals and stopping into restaurants, shops and art galleries. Get an olive-oil soap exfoliation at Zein Oriental Spa, an upscale hamman-spa. If you're craving beach time, check out Plage des Catalans or Plage du Prado.